Installation:  This is the Easiest System for Self Installers! I can help you every step of the way, or do the installation for you.   Every furnace comes with a complete detailed easy to use 41 page manual with lots of pictures and diagrams!

Basic Installation:
Installation can be quite simple with the basic needs listed below.   We can assist with the installation if needed, call for estimate.

Installing an outdoor wood furnace can be broken down simply:

1. Pour a 4" thick concrete pad to support the furnace. The Shaver Pro Series 165 weighs 1600 lb. The total weight with water will be about 2800 lb.  It will take only 1/2 yard of concrete for a nice concrete pad (approx 4" thick), giving you a nice place to stand and load wood.
2. Dig a trench, making sure it's below the frost line, to prevent excessive heat loss and freezing. This is the maximum depth to which frost will penetrate the ground during the worst of winter. This depth varies from area to area. See this frost line map or call your local building inspector's office. 
   
   Trenchers, ditch-withes and small backhoes can be rented inexpensively allowing you to dig the trench yourself with little effort, avoiding $40-60 an hour charge from your local landscaper or septic tank installer.  The ground temperature below the frost line is 50-55 degrees, even in winter, so heat loss is minimal.
   
   You will be placing 2 runs of 1" PEX pipe (plus one 3/4" to fill line the furnace) and a 12/3 110V wire in a 4" or 6" PVC pipe. The pipe is placed in the trench, from the outdoor furnace to the house. We recommend using insulated pipe OR for less money, insulating the Pex pipe with Solarguard™, which is only 1/4" thick (easy to wrap) but has an R value just shy of R12 - for one layer!
3. Remember to run a 2nd twine or thin rope through the pipe in case you need to pull a pipe through later. It will make it a LOT easier!
4. If you are connecting a hot water heater you will need one additional run of 3/4" Pex (for a total of 4) and another pump ($99), mounted indoors. See info and picture below.
5. Install the heat exchanger in the furnace's output plenum. (If hooking it to a boiler, you will install a water-to-water heat exchanger). You can usually find a size to fit your plenum so that little or no metal work is needed.
6. Connect the 1" PEX pipe at the furnace and at the heat exchanger.  We use simple compression fittings or Sharkbite™ so no plumber is needed! All that is needed is an adjustable wrench for the compression fittings and your hands for the Sharkbite fittings.
7. Connect the 3/4" PEX pipe at the hot water heater. No expensive side-arm heat or plate heat exchanger is needed - since potable hot water is circulated directly from the hot water heater through the built-in domestic hot water heat exchanger furnace. It goes back to your hot water heater already heated up! This can save you $30 plus a month! This also saves you about $100 - $200 on a side-arm or plate heat exchanger. 
8. Install a new 15A circuit breaker ($8-15) in your breaker box and connect the 110V wire to the breaker and out at the furnace
9. Install a simple thermostat and hook it up. The third wire in the 12/3 wire is used for the pump instead of special thermostat wire, so that it only runs on demand when your furnace fan (or boiler pump) is running..
10. Fill with water. Start a fire!
11. You have started saving money!

Remember, this is just an overview. You will get a comprehensive 41 page manual with lots of pictures and diagrams to make it super easy for you!

Download Diagram for Boiler and Hydronic installations such as for water radiators, water baseboard heaters, etc. (PDF file - Adobe reader required)

Download Diagram for hooking up a Pool, Hot Tub or Spa.

Click on the images above for larger images.

Download Diagram for Boiler and Hydronic installations such as for water radiators, water baseboard heaters, etc. (PDF file - Adobe reader required)

Download Diagram for hooking up a Pool, Hot Tub or Spa.